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Print discharge waterbased ink
How to print using discharge waterbased ink
(Just like the Rock Tour t.shirt)
FIRST TEST FOR DISCHARGEABLITY OF THE GARMENT AS T.SHIRTS ARE ALL DYED DIFFERENTLY.
Water based products are transparent. Before we do any printing with discharge inks, we have to first know what our background garment colour is, the colour under the dye.
To perform this test on the garment that is to be printed; follow these steps:
1. Mix 94% WHITE discharge ink and 6% activator. Mix with hand held blender.
2. Print onto the the garment with the same screen mesh you would use in production. A 2x2 inch square is sufficient. Cure as normal.
3. If after curing, you achieve an OPAQUE white colour, your garment is acceptable for discharge.
4. If there is a hint of colour remaining on the printed area then your garment IS NOT fully dischargeable. If you were doing a straight discharge print this would not be acceptable. If printing additional colours to your design the remaining shirt tint will create problems when color matching so choose your garments carefully making sure the dyes are dischargeable.
Dye Selection: All dyes, whether direct dyes or reactive dyes, are rated for “dischargeability”. The rating applied to these dye classes is a 1 to 5 rating. The higher the number, the better the “dischargeability” of that color. Reactive dyes will respond the best overall, however, not all dyes within the same classification will work, and how effectively they discharge will change with each rating. Check with the manufacturer for these specifications.
PREPARING THE INKS FOR USE:
When mixing discharge inks for production, we recommend not to add DIS-ACT Activator at that time. Wait until an amount of ink is needed and activate that amount at that time only. Keep your containers well sealed to avoid evaporation and thickening of your inks. Always remember to add the Activator last, after you have mixed together all your other components, retarder/cold cure catylist , work life is 8 hours. Do not reuse it, dry it out and dispose of it properly.
SETTING UP YOUR PRESS FOR DISCHARGE PRINTING:
Always make sure to use a water resistant stencil when printing standard water based. When printing Discharge inks, you need to make sure the stencil is also designed for discharge inks. Check with your emulsion manufacturer as to which of their products will be best for you. the murakami pro works well on short print runs, a hardener may have to be used on longer runs, to avoid break down of stencil reclaiming will be difficult.
Always flood your image after your print stroke to ensure minimal drying in of your image area. It is best to run your press with no flash units as this will accelerate the drying in process and evaporation of your inks. If necessary, you can run with a flash unit. Just make sure to leave time to cool off. Other colours can be printed on top and flashe dried before fully cure.
Also make sure you check the ink in your screens more often and mist the ink with water to rehydrate the ink if you find it evaporating.
Soft squeegees are recommended. Either 65 durometer or 70 are best.
Always test what will work best for your design.
Continue to check production throughout the run. As water in the inks will begin to evaporate and the activator will be losing strength. This can contribute to ink drying in the screen mesh.
Make sure the garments are well cured. If your conveyer dryer is not long enough you may have to pass the garment through 2-3 times. Each dryer is different, and each design puts different stress loads on the dryer. So each job will cure differently. For small studio set ups a heat press will be more efficent than a flash dryer, guaranteed fully cure.
While printing, do not allow garments to air cure as that will keep the print from properly discharging. The design must be wet upon entering the dryer to discharge completely.
It is crucial during the cure process to completely evaporate the moisture from the garment and ink layer in order for the ink to fully cure.
Do not stack your shirts HOT while coming out of the dryer. If they were not cured properly, or cooled off enough, they may transfer the print to the back side of the garment you will then need a SPOT CLEANING GUN.